The garments we knit and crochet with care can last for decades with gentle, material-specific maintenance. Our yarns consist of various fibers, with wool being one of the most common. Wool is a fantastic natural material: it is durable, antibacterial, and remains warm even if it absorbs significant amounts of moisture. Alpaca shares many qualities with sheep's wool but is slightly heavier and offers a beautiful drape. Cotton, linen, and viscose are durable, cool fibers that are particularly lovely for the warmer months.

Washing

If your garment gets a stain, it is often enough to dab it with a damp towel—do not rub!

Air it Out: Air out your garment more often than you wash it. A great tip is to let it hang in the bathroom while you shower to absorb moisture, then let it dry in fresh air.

Temperature & Friction: When washing handmade items (especially animal fibers like wool, alpaca, cashmere, and silk), temperature and agitation are key. Generally, wool and silk should be washed on a maximum 30°C wool program if using a machine. Avoid "shocking" the fiber with drastic temperature changes when wet, as this causes felting.

Avoid Agitation: Do not rub or wring the garment. Avoid washing it with heavy items like jeans that can abrade the delicate fibers.

Hand Washing: Fill a basin with max 30°C water. Submerge the garment and let it soak for about 15 minutes. Gently press the garment down and let it float back up to allow water and detergent to circulate. When rinsing, ensure the new water is the same temperature as the wash water. It may take several rinses to remove all soap.

Superwash Treated Yarn: These can withstand 40°C and regular cycles, but they still benefit from a wool program for a longer lifespan. Superwash yarn tends to stretch when wet, so washing your gauge swatch is essential. Carry the wet garment carefully (perhaps in a bowl or colander) to the drying area.

Detergent: Use an enzyme-free detergent specifically designed for wool and silk. Never use fabric softener; it leaves a film over the yarn that disrupts the natural properties of the wool fibers.

Drying

After washing, your garment is best dried flat on a towel. Let the excess water drain, or roll the garment in a towel like a "Swiss roll" and press the roll to squeeze out moisture. Carry the damp garment with both hands so no parts hang down (extra important for superwash!).

Lay the garment on a dry towel on a flat surface and gently shape it by hand to the desired measurements. This is generally what is meant by "blocking." Most items don't need pins, but if you are blocking lace, ensure you use stainless steel pins to avoid rust stains. Avoid direct heat; if you must iron, use the lowest setting and a pressing cloth.

Storage

Fold, Don't Hang: Store your garments clean and lying flat. Knit and crochet wear can easily lose its shape if left on a hanger for long periods.

Pest Protection: Cedarwood and lavender are recommended to deter moths and beetles.

Cleanliness: Ensure items are clean before putting them away for the season. Shake them out and check on them occasionally; pests dislike light and fresh air. In older homes, airtight storage containers are a good investment.

Maintaining Your Garments

Pilling: Most garments will eventually develop pills (small fiber clusters on the surface). These are easily removed with a fabric shaver. Do not pull them off with your fingers, as this pulls out more fibers and creates new pills. Areas prone to friction—like under seatbelts or bag straps—pill more easily.

Mending: Check high-wear areas like elbows, cuffs, and sock heels. It is easiest to reinforce these before a hole appears using duplicate stitch (Swiss darning).

Visible Mending: If a hole has already formed, you can weave over it or patch it. Searching for "visible mending" can provide great inspiration!

Pro Tip: Save your leftover yarn scraps and tag them with the name of the project. This ensures you always have the original yarn available for future repairs.